So...You Want a Siberian Husky
Are you interested in buying a Siberian Husky? Then, you've already heard how marvelous they are. We think you should also be told that they do have their shortcomings, and may not make the ideal pet for everyone who is attracted to them. Siberians are a gregarious lot and need the company of other dogs or of people at all times. If you work all day, or have room for only one dog . . . don't buy a Siberian.
While capable of strong affection for his family, the Siberian Husky is also very friendly with strangers. So, if you want the fierce loyalty of a one-man dog . . . don't buy a Siberian.
The Siberian Husky is not a watch dog, although those ignorant of his true nature may be frightened by his appearance. If you want a dog with aggressive guard-dog instincts . . . don't buy a Siberian.
At least once a year Siberians shed their coats. If you like fur all over the house and in the very air you breathe, then fine. If, however, you value neatness at all times, then . . . don't buy a Siberian.
Siberian Huskies have a natural proclivity for digging holes in backyards. If you take great pride in your landscaping efforts . . . don't buy a Siberian.
Of all the shortcomings to be found in Siberians, the most dangerous to the pet owner is their tremendous desire to RUN. But the very first dash that a puppy makes across the road could be his last run, anywhere. A Siberian, for his own protection, should be kept confined or under control at all times. If you are one of those people who think it is cruel to kennel a dog, or keep him confined in his own backyard . . . don't buy a Siberian.
Temperament
The characteristic temperament of the Siberian Husky is friendly and gentle, but also alert and outgoing. He does not display the possessive qualities of the guard dog, nor is he overly suspicious of strangers or aggressive with other dogs. Some measure of reserve and dignity may be expected in the mature dog. His intelligence, tractability, and eager disposition make him an agreeable companion and willing worker.
Color
All colors from black to pure white are allowed. A variety of markings on the head is common, including many striking patterns not found in other breeds.
Size, Proportion, Substance
Height: Dogs, 21 to 23 1/2 inches at the withers. Bitches, 20 to 22 inches at the withers.
Weight: Dogs, 45 to 60 pounds. Bitches, 35 to 50 pounds. Weight is in proportion to height. The measurements mentioned above represent the extreme height and weight limits with no preference given to either extreme. Any appearance of excessive bone or weight should be penalized. In profile, the length of the body from the point of the shoulder to the rear point of the croup is slightly longer than the height of the body from the ground to the top of the withers
THE SIBERIAN HUSKY LIKES TO DIG AND CHEW, they are no different from any other puppy. This behavior will include, but is never limited to, your landscape, rose bushes, couches, shoes, electric cords, patio furniture, barbecue, patio posts, trees, hoses and anything else they can latch on to. While they may outgrow the chewing stage, some stay diggers forever!
THE SIBERIAN HUSKY MUST HAVE A FENCED YARD, preferably at least 6 ft. high and solid. They have been known to go through a wood fence to investigate whatever they see, or hear, on the other side. They are an active animal and need to have room to exercise, so while some have done well living in an apartment-type situation, they really need a medium-to-large size yard to play in. The Siberian Husky does well being an outdoor dog but really would prefer to be a part of his family, especially when everyone is home.
THE SIBERIAN HUSKY IS EXCELLENT WITH KIDS but isn't a great fan of "smaller" animals such as guinea pigs, cats, chickens, rabbits, etc. They have a "prey" instinct and while they may not intend to kill, they will grab small animals and often cause them serious and fatal injuries. Remember that common sense should dictate when any dog is included in your family. An infant or young child should never be left alone with any dog, regardless of the breed. As for cats, if the Siberian is raised from puppyhood with the cat, they can co-exist in the same household HOWEVER it is not wise to trust them alone together when you are away
THE SIBERIAN HUSKY DOES NOT GUARD because he is not a "barker". Instead, they will eagerly greet their new found friend/intruder with a wagging tail and lead them to the bag of treats. They will "talk" to you but are not going to bark at the utility person or children playing on your lawn. If a watchdog is what you want, this is not the breed for you.Siberian Huskies enjoy the company of other Siberians and often do better in pairs. They are trainable, despite what many seasoned obedience trainers will tell you. They are very intelligent but get easily bored and distracted so training is a bit more difficult for some. They need to be challenged so the same tried and true techniques used for a German Shepherd will have to be changed and modified to fit the Siberian. A good obedience trainer familiar with the Siberian is the best choice when you embark on the training phase. Training should begin early and be consistent, these dogs will try to outsmart you so persistence is a must. The best way to raise a Siberian is the same way that one would raise a child......with gentle firmness, persistence and tons of patience
HEALTH & GENETIC DISORDERS
The Siberian Husky is generally a very healthy, hardy breed, with an average lifespan of 13 to 15 years, however they are subject to hip dysplasia, eye disorders (juvenile cataracts, corneal dystrophy and progressive retinal atrophy) and epilepsy. Breeders have made great strides in the elimination of hip dysplasia due to their diligence in breeding "clear" dogs to "clear" dogs. Unfortunately, the eye disorders are another situation altogether. The mode of transmission of the various eye disorders has not yet been defined making it a more difficult disorder to eliminate. various veterinary institutions are working towards DNA testing to help eliminate these disorders but as of yet the cost and application of these tests are such that they are not widely used. For now, the best we can do is continue to examine our dogs on a yearly basis, removing from our breeding program those dogs who are afflicted. However, it must be pointed out that because a dog is afflicted with an eye disorder they should not be ruled out as a pet/companion dog. Most of these eye problems are not so severe that these dogs cannot be wonderful pets and lead long, happy lives.
all dogs should have plenty of room to exercise with fresh water available at all times. They should be clean as should their kennels or living quarters. REGULAR exercise is needed for the siberian husky they are WORKERS they HUNT they are not a couch potato so you need to take in mind that if i add a siberian husky to my family i need to exercise him/her
TrainingTraining Siberian Huskies can be a challenge. They are an extremely intelligent, energetic, and stubborn breed, and one must be ready for the unexpected. Training should start when the dog is young. You should work to establish the rules of the house early, and make sure that the puppy knows that you are in charge. For example, if you do not want the dog on the bed as an adult, do not allow it as a puppy and never give in, even once, or the dog will think that all rules are flexible. The rule of thumb is that if you train a dog to do something, expect him to do it. Therefore, if the puppy learns that certain things are allowed, it will be difficult to train them not to do them as adults.
Since the dog is pack-oriented, it important to establish yourself as the head of the pack, or alpha, very early. Once you do this, the dog will respect you and training will be much easier. It is very important to understand the distinction between establishing yourself as alpha and bullying the dog into submission. These are not the same thing! The former is simply a communication that the dog needs and expects, while the latter is very negative and detrimental to the dog's well-being. By establishing yourself as the leader of the pack early, your dog will learn to respect you and look to you for guidance and will know where the boundaries for acceptable behavior lie. It is best to enroll in a puppy training class (or puppy kindergarten training as they are commonly known) soon after your dog is home and has all of its vaccinations. This training is good for the dog and for you as the owner, as it will help you understand your new puppy and establish you as alpha very early in the puppy's life, which is important with this breed. Once you have completed the puppy class, and have been working with the dog for a few months, a basic obedience class is in order. Obedience training this breed can be very interesting and extremely challenging. Many owners will complain that their dogs act perfectly in class, but will not obey at home. This breed is intelligent enough to differentiate situations very well, and will apply different rules of behavior for different situations. You must stay on top of the dog and maintain control, which is easier to do while the dog is of manageable size than with a stubborn, energetic adult that has been allowed to get away with undesirable behavior for a long time. It is very important to remember that the Siberian Husky is a working breed. His heritage has endowed him with the desire to run and his conformation has given him the ability to enjoy it effortlessly. Because of this, it is important that no Siberian ever be allowed unrestrained freedom. In addition, most Siberians have a strong predator drive that can translate into trouble. This is usually directed toward neighborhood cats, birds, rodents, and other small animals. For his own protection, he should be confined and under control at all times. Since he is a working dog, he must be given something to do. Exercise may be obtained in the leash, at play, and best of all, through mushing. Siberians make wonderful hiking companions, and with a dog backpack, can carry food and water. Above all, if you feel that it is inconvenient or cruel to keep a dog confined and under control like this, then the Siberian Husky is not the breed for you.
My Siberian Husky puppy is very noisy, particularly at night. What can I do? This is not particular to the breed, but since I get asked this question all of the time, it is worth repeating the answer. The noisy puppy at night is simply lonely. He needs to be near his "pack," which is you in this case. It used to be his littermates. Over time, your puppy will learn what I would call "pack permanence," borrowed from the term "object permanence" in which a human infant learns that objects that "dissapear," i.e., a dropped toy, a parent leaving the room, return. They do not vanish from his or her "universe," that is, they are "permanent." In the puppy, he needs reassurance that you are "permanent." One easy method is to use a crate at night with your puppy, and put the crate next to your bed. When your puppy wakes and whines, you can easily reassure, or in some cases "rattle" the cage, to quiet the dog. This is also an effective house training technique. Is there something wrong with an eye that is both brown and blue? No. This is called a "pinto eye", a "parti eye", or a "split eye." It is also fairly common in the breed. One or both eyes may be all blue with a brown pie shaped wedge, or all brown with a blue wedge. At first glance, it may appear that there is something wrong with the eye but there is not. It is simply a matter if pigmentation. This too is perfectly acceptable in the breed. I've heard that Siberians are mischievous. Is this true? Yes and no. Siberians are very intelligent dogs. They will often do things that surprise their owners. They can get into things that one might think are impossible. When Siberians are bored, they can become quite mischievous, inventive, and destructive. This is typical of working dogs. This is why it is so important to include the Siberian in family activities and give him plenty of attention and exercise. My Siberian Husky digs constantly and is destroying the yard. What can I do? Digging can be a very difficult problem to solve. It is the nature of the breed to dig cooling holes to lie in. One method that has worked occasionally for me is to provide the dog an area in your yard in which he is allowed, even encouraged, to dig and train him to dig there. A sand-box, of sorts, with soft cool dirt with an occasional treat buried there can work. There are other methods of solution to this problem, but I have not tried them My Siberian Husky howls all day long, annoying the neighbors. What can I do? This too is a simple problem to solve. This problem should be approached in a series of stages. Stage 1 is use simple negative rienforcement when the dog makes unacceptable noise. This must be done repeatedly, every time it happens, for several days. Stage 2 is to step it up by employing a willing, perhaps the annoyed, neighbor to help. Have him squirt the dog with water when the noise happens. Most Siberian Huskies hate water. You could also employ any number of devices on the market designed to apply a squirt of water when a noise happens. I have never used one, but it should work. Unfortunately, it will not be able to distinguish between your dog making noise and a loud car, so your dog may recieve negative rienenforcement when it is not warranted. All of these methods, if applied with paitience and vigillence, should work. I have not tried stage 2. I have had stage 1 work most of the time, but occasionally have had to jump to stage 3, the bark-activated shock collar. These deliver up to eight different levels of shock to the dog when barking occurs, at adjustable levels of sensitivity. The shocks are similar to the electric fence above. I have used such a collar on two of my dogs, and have never had to go above level 2 on the collar. The problem was solved with the first shock. This may sound harsh, but it can save your dogs from the legal system if you have a sensitive neighbour. I've been told that Siberian Huskies are "cat killers." Is this true? They can be. It depends on how they are socialized as puppies. They have a very strong prey-drive, and if they are not socialized to smaller animals as puppies, they will likely kill most small animals they encounter (rabits, squirrels, cats, etc).but i have friends that have iberian huskies and their huskies have never hurt the pet cat in the house but on the other hand the huskies do not like the neighbours cats..... I have a newborn/small child. Is he/she safe around my Siberian Husky? It is never a good idea to trust any dog around a small child unsupervised, no matter how docile the dog (and child) seem. Be extremely careful and supervise the dog and child. Gradually introduce the situation to both to make them both comfortable. This advice has nothing to do with the Siberian Husky breed in particular. Are Siberian Huskies genetically pre-disposed to suffer from Epilepsy (siezures of unknown origin)? No. However, Epilepsy does occur in the breed. The siezures are not, generally speaking, life threatening, but if your dog does have a siezure, you should have your dog checked by a veterinarian to rule out the many other possible causes. If, in the end, Epilepsy is the diagnosis, siezures are usually controlable with medication (Dilantin or Phenobarbital are usually prescribed). MY SIBERIAN HUSKY HAS SPOTS AROUND HIS/HER SNOUT:zink deficiency is the most ommon for that question i have spent loads of money at my local vets because of this problem only to find out later (after large expences) that all i needed was zink which is contained in a tablet form of which you can put in a meal or the other is OX-LIVER we feed our huskies 2 times a month and it has worked but if you are uncertain then advice is to contact your local vet and mention the zink problem to them especially if your vet tells you it is acne.........my vet told us that WHAT ABOUT NAMING MY SIBERIAN HUSKY??? have a look here for instance http://www.wayeh.com/aboutsleddogs/names.htm i come across this so i pass it on to help others out there some beautiful names here may i add
THE DREADED PARASITES
Alternative Remedies For Parasites
Note: It is important to consider that when one cat at home is diagnosed as suffering Parasites, all cats at home may require treatment.
Always, consult an Aromatherapist or a Holistic Veterinarian before treating your pets with Aromatherapy.
Warning: Do NOT buy Aromatherapy Oil products from Health Shops or any other commercial outlet, only buy from a reputable Aromatherapist or Holistic Veterinarian and ALWAYS state what they are being used for. Commercial oils are not the same and often contain other products mixed with the oil which can be toxic to your pet. Ask your Aromatherapist or Holistic Veterinarian as many questions as possible, good sound advice from the knowledgeable is priceless.
Quote from a PIA-Certified Aromatherapist, and member of the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy regarding cats and essential oils: "Cats cannot efficiently metabolize the oils, and they can build up in their bodies, and can eventually lead to toxic levels causing death, or symptoms of toxicity." Unquote.
Which in simple terms means that you could use them for some time with no symptoms of toxicity in your pets, similar to heavy metal build up in the soft tissues and organs, as happens with lead and zinc exposure. It is also recommended that if you use essential oils in your home for burning or just for the aroma, that cats are probably fine as long as a door is open so they can go to another room.
Fleas, Lice and Ticks - These are all surface dwelling parasites.
Fleas are small, dark brown insects that run rapidly through the fur.
Lice are tiny, gray insects that move very slowly and from clusters, particularly on the ear-flaps.
Ticks resemble smooth, gray warts. They fix their mouth parts into the skin and do not move.
Symptoms to look out for are the physical evidence of parasites - an affected pet may scratch and groom excessively and, if the pet is allergic to flea bites, there may be raised red bumps on the skin.
Remedies:
Aromatherapy
- Essential oils cedarwood, eucalyptus, terebinth, lemon, rosemary and lavendar all help to prevent external parasites. they can be given by massage or added to water (three drops per 150 ml of water) and combed or brushed into fur.
Homeopathy
- Sulfur - one dose should be given weekly to prevent flea infestations.
- Pulex - is a soothing treatment for flea irritation.
Herbal
- Tansy and fleabane are flea repelling herbs. Pennyroyal is often mentioned as well, but can have devastating toxicity effects if used incorrectly, safer to not use this one.
- Garlic is also very effective, one third of a chopped clove should be added to food daily.
Nutritional
- Brewer's yeast may be given by mouth, or brushed into the fur.
- Bathing in dilute cider vinegar helps eliminate fleas and is also a good preventative measure. Use at a rate of one teaspoon per 2.5 cups of drinking water.
Mites
Mites are tiny parasites too small to be seen with the naked eye.There are three main groups of mites: surface, mange, and ear mites.
Surface Mites
Surface mites live on the surface of the skin and cause irritation leading to scratching and itching. Two common species are 'cheyletiella' - the rabbit fur mite (found on several species, not just on rabbits), and harvest mites - orange mites that affect feet, legs and stomach mainly in the autumn (USA: Fall). Treat surface mites as for fleas.
Mange Mites
Demodectic and sarcoptic mange are unusual diseases of cats, and for this the literature is relatively scarce. Demodectic mange is caused by demodex canis, a tiny mite that cannot be seen without the aid of a microscope. Sarcoptic mange, also known as scabies, is caused by a microscopic mite. The female mite causes the characteristic intense itching as they burrow under the skin to lay their eggs. The eggs hatch in a few days, develop into adults, and begin laying their own eggs in less than three weeks.
Mange mites are burrowing mites, living deep inside the skin and causing intense irritation, often with secondary infection of the skin. the two commonest types of mange mites are sarcoptic mange and demodectic mange (also known as: demodectic otitis externa, demodectic red, or puppy mange).
The first is especially common in dogs, often picked up from foxes, and potentially transmissible to humans (known as scabies when affecting people). Telltale signs of sarcoptic mange are crusty ear tips, fierce itching, and hair loss, particularly on the ears, elbows, legs, and face in the early stages. Later on, the hair loss spreads throughout the body.
The second usually occurs when the immune system is damaged. Treat with immune system boosters as well as the remedies below.
Cheyletiella Mange
Cheyletiella mange, also known as walking dandruff. It affects puppies and is caused by a large reddish mite that can be seen under a magnifying glass. This mange is identified by the dandruff dusting that occurs over the dog's head, neck, and back.
Walking dandruff is highly contagious but short-lived. It causes mild itching. The mite that causes the mange dies a short time after leaving the host.
Remedies:
Aromatherapy
- Lemongrass, lavender and rosemary may be used by massage, or diluted (3 drops per 150 ml of water) and brushed into the fur daily to treat mites.
- Basil, citronella, virginia cedarwood and cinammon leaf can be used in a similar way as mite 'repellents' to help protect pets against mites.
Homeopathy
- Sulfur - especially if the pet prefers not to be too hot.
- Psorium - especially fro pets who love heat.
- Bovista - where face is particularly affected with intense itching.
Herbal
- Garlic is a good remedy for all parasite problems.
- Fresh lemongrass can be brushed into a pet's fur to treat mites.
Ear Mites
Ear mites live inside the ears, where they cause intense irritation, a large amount of discharge (usually dry, crumbly, and black in dogs and cats), and visible head-shaking or ear-scratching. Ear mites are a common cause of aural hematoma and are most common in young animals, especially kittens.
Remedies:Homeopathy
Sulfur - for pets that avoid heat and prefer to be cool. Psorium - for pets that love warmth. Rhus tox - for severe itching and soreness of ears. Graphites - if discharge is thick, sticky and smelly.
Herbal
A mixture of equal parts of thyme. rosemary and rue infusions, mixed 50/50 with olive oil is an effective ear-cleaning remedy, which will kill mites at the same time. Olive oil and Vitamin E (3 teaspoons of olive oil with 500 iu vitamin E) will clean and heal the damaged, inflamed ear canal.
Skin Infections
Localized skin infections, or what’s are sometimes called “Hot Spots,” are usually caused by a bacterium called Staphylococcus Intermedius, although other bacteria can be involved. In most cases, the cause remains unknown, although they are often due to some underlying factor such as fleas, mites, bacteria, allergies, or irritants (e.g. a harsh shampoo). In some cases, a severe essential fatty acid deficiency may also be the cause.It is suspected that increases in the temperature and humidity of the skin environment may play a role in the development of these skin infections. This is probably why hot spots tend to be more common in the summer than in the winter. Often, hot spots may occur after a dog has been swimming in a lake or river, likely because this changes the temperature and humidity of the skin microenvironment. Dogs that are prone to allergies also tend to get hot spots more readily than non-allergic dogs.
At one time, all hot spots were thought to be the same and, as a result, were all treated the same way. However, research has shown that there are actually two distinct forms of hot spots (also known as acute moist dermatitis), namely superficial hot spots and deep hot spots. Correctly identifying which type of hot spot your dog has helps the veterinarian to determine the correct treatment and possibly even the cause.
Symptoms
Superficial hot spots are, as the name implies, on the skin surface and appear as a moist patches of inflamed, ulcerated, itchy skin with matted hair. They are easily treated by clipping back the hair from the affected area, then cleansing with a medicated soap and water, followed by application of an appropriate topical medication.
The second type of hot spot is the deep hot spot. It is quite different from the superficial form in that there is itchiness, ulceration and inflammation but also a very deep infection and oozing. Unlike the superficial kind of hot spot, these hot spots must be treated with antibiotics as well as topical treatment. They are seen most often in young dogs and in Golden Retrievers and Saint Bernards.
Prevention is difficult, if not impossible, unless an underlying cause can be determined. If you cannot determine the cause, there are some things you can do to lessen the probability of your dog getting hot spots. For example, giving medicated bathes (e.g. BENZOYL PEROXIDE SHAMPOO) on a regular basis may help prevent some cases from re-occurring. Supplementing the diet with an essential fatty acid supplement may prove helpful in others. Early detection of hot spots before they become serious is also an important part of any preventative program. Your veterinarian should be consulted if your dog gets a hot spot so that you can both work together to relieve your pet’s suffering, as well as determine a cause and course of treatment.
